Professional Patterning & Sewing
The first step of making a customized dress is to translate your design into sewing patterns, taking into account the selected fabric and your measurements. It takes a high level of expertise from professional dressmakers to include all of your expectations into a final result that is just as you imagined it. Bluethread’s patterning team is made up of pattern-makers with over 10 years of experience. They understand the importance of working with care and patience and invest their time into learning and practicing new styles. Bluethread works hard to ensure your dress will look perfect.
After the pattern is confirmed, the basic silhouette of your dress is defined. Seamstresses will then carefully cut the bridal fabric into pieces based on the paper pattern. The fabric pieces will then be pinned into the right shapes and sewn together. Usually, one dress with even the simplest look requires 3-5 layers of fabrics sewn together. Most tulle gowns normally require an extra 6-10 layers of tulle in different softness to support the inflated appearance of the skirt.
Different fabrics give different textures and feeling to a dress.
For example, the family of satin, which includes duchess satin, silk mikado, silk satin and taffeta,
is evocative of royalty, tradition and grace. Tulle and organza are soft and tender, chiffon is simple and light,
lace is delicate, and hand-beading and embroidery always add vibrancy.
The fabrics used in Bluethread’s dresses are all of premium quality and carefully selected to look elegant no matter what features you are looking for.
Lace is extremely varied, contains intricate features and comes in many different styles with various stitching possibilities, source materials, qualities and prices. Bridal lace, especially, is often very intricate. It is one of the most important and costly components of a wedding gown, whether it covers the entire dress or is used only as trim or embellishment appliques.
Lace is actually a very general name for all types of floral-patterned fabric made of cotton, polyester, nylon and even silk. Generally speaking, you will see three main categories of lace on dresses: regular embroidery lace, guipure lace (called venise or needle lace in some places) and French lace. They have very different appearances so they can be easily distinguished from each other. Normally, French lace and guipure lace are higher in price than regular embroidery lace. However, there are no absolute right-or-wrong, nice-or-cheap distinctions between these three categories; it simply depends on the style of dress. In all three categories, the prices and qualities also vary.
(recently most popular on wedding gowns)
In the family of lace, French lace is the most popular.
Today, it is more of a classification of bridal lace than it is a specific type.
The two main subcategories in French lace are Chantilly Lace and Alencon Lace, which come from different stitching techniques: Chantilly is a full piece of lace cloth, presenting a floral design in a plain net (which goes with the fabric). In comparison, Alencon is made up of small pieces of lace that are sewn onto an existing fabric or netting like tulle or organza (so you will always see a floss embroidery stitch on Alencon). It is often used as lace applique and goes with heavy and raised threads that outline the floral feature on top of the basic embroidery stitch.
Chantilly lace can also be added with raised outlining to get more three-dimensional vividness. This is called Chantilly Lace with raised outlining. After adding the raised outlining Chantilly and Alencon can look very similar to each other, which can confuse a lot people, even professionals. As a result, the difference between these laces has gradually faded out, and many stores and websites use Alencon lace as a group name for both Alencon lace and Chantilly Lace with raised outlining.
Chantilly and Alencon Lace
Even the same types of lace can have huge differences in price (from $10 per yard to $300 per yard) and feel with different quality. Generally, the high-standard lace should have a gentle figure, very soft touch, tight-and-loose variation, tidy raised outlining and clear lashes on the rim (if any). When it is sewn onto the dress, the dress should look vivid, graceful and delicate. Cheaper lace will, in comparison, look glistening and feel hard like sheetrock.
Bad Lace vs. Good Lace
- ✗ The floral figure is solidly white
- ✗ The rim lashes stick together forming a rigid and wooden edge line
- ✗ The outlining on top is messy
- ✓ The floral figure is gently varied with mixed whiteness
- ✓ The rim lashes stand out, giving a soft curve to the lace
- ✓ The outlining on top is clear
To guarantee quality from the start, we always take care in obtaining the right lace (or other fabric) for every style of dress. The laces used in Bluethread dresses are premium laces. We make sure every cloth and applique is perfect, especially when it comes to the more popular lace, french lace. We cannot provide the $300/yard exclusive luxury lace given our price ranges, but we do make every effort to pursue the ‘light-luxury’ lace, sparing no expense to get laces with beauty and excellent quality.
Handmade Fineness in details
Hand-Attaching Lace Appliques and Embellishment One by One
Bluethread believes that the fineness and beauty of a handmade gown always come out
in the details after patient and elaborate handwork. This is why we concern ourselves with every layer and detail.
Some tailors use a whole piece of lace cloth when sewing lace dresses. Since the floral design regularly repeats on the fabric, the dress could look less vibrant in some cases.
For a better appearance, Bluethread adopted another approach called applique reset in making le fleur lacy styles.
Our professional seamstresses will:
- Hand-cut or burn out the Alencon or outlining Chantilly appliques from the fabric
- Re-attach the lace appliques over outer tulle layer ONE BY ONE following style design
- Sew the appliques back onto the dress
There could be over 200 pieces of lace to fasten onto one single dress! Following this applique reset approach, the time and labor costs are 3 times greater than normal. However, it breaks up the repeating pattern on the original lace fabric and gives irregular abundance to the dress. We believe it is worth the effort and patience for the beautiful final product that we offer you.
Embroidery with crystal beads
Besides lace, glamorous decoration is another factor to take your dress above and beyond. You may be surprised to know that machines these days cannot handle such elaborate work, and all the shiny beadings you often see on wedding dresses are 100% hand-embroidered. Isn’t that amazing?!
For a crystal decoration:
- The design should first be decided on paper and then drawn on the tulle directly with auto fade pen.
- Following the marks, the embroiderers stitch the tulle with rhinestones, beads, pearls or paillettes. They must be 100% focused, meticulous and patient to make sure every stitch is in its right place.
- Then, the beaded tulle can be sewed onto the dress as a whole layer or as a decoration band.